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crag board training

CRAG BOARD AND HOLD NUMBERING

 

 

Because finger-board work-outs are intense. It is essential that you warm up thoroughly before hand to prevent muscular or tendon injuries. Also remain well hydrated before during and after exercise.
If any injury happens during a work out, STOP immediately.
Like any power training exercises follow it up with plenty of rest at least 48 to 72 hrs between sessions.

Training on these boards is best done early into a climbing session as the body needs to be feeling both warmed up and strong. Training when you are tired creates poor technique and can there fore over load the fingers and tendons.

 

Set out below is a couple of training programs. Like any thing keep a log book of your training, to help monitor your performance. If you need to work a more specific muscle or tendon group adjust the exercises for that.
Hangs can either be done open handed or crimped. If crimping though make sure you are fully warmed up and avoid snatches as they carry the greatest risk of injury.


If exercises are to hard. Use assistance with either a bungee cord or a chair.

If exercises are to easy, use added weights.

NOTE:

Whilst not at the crag, the Crag Board can also be mounted to the wall for intense training exercises.

 

 

LEVEL OF WORK-OUT:

EASY

 

EXERCISE TYPE

 

HOLD TYPE

 

SETS

 

REST
(between sets)

 

EXTRAS

 

Warm up. Do some finger
and arm stretches to get the muscles moving

JUGS

 

     

2 arm pull ups

JUGS

 

2 – 3 sets

 

1 –2 mins

 

 

2 arm static hangs

H3

 

3 – 5 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Hang till failure

 

2 arm static hangs

H1

 

3 – 4 sets

 

1 - 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Use assistance if needed.

2 arm static hangs

H3 and H5

 

2 – 3 sets

 

1 - 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Use assistance if needed.
Swap sides and repeat

 

2 arm static hangs

H1 and H5

 

1 – 3 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Use assistance if needed.
Swap sides and repeat

 

2 arm static hangs

H1

 

1 – 2 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Use assistance if needed.

 

2 arm static hangs

H3

 

1 – 2 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Use assistance if needed.

 

Warm down

 

Jugs

 

     

Stretch etc

       

 

 

LEVEL OF WORK-OUT:

ADVANCED

EXERCISE TYPE

 

HOLD TYPE

 

SETS

 

REST
(between sets)

 

EXTRAS

 

Warm up. Do some finger
and arm stretches to get the muscles moving

JUGS

 

     

2 arm static hangs

H3

 

3 – 4 sets

 

1 –2 mins

 

 

2 arm pull ups

H3

 

2 – 4 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

 

2 arm static hangs

H1

 

3 – 5 sets

 

1 - 2 mins

 

Hang till failure

 

2 arm static hangs

H1 and H5

 

2 – 4 sets

 

1 - 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Swap sides and

 

repeat

1 arm static hangs

H4

 

3 – 5 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Swap sides and

 

repeat
Use assistance if required

2 arm static hangs

H7 and H5

 

4 – 6 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Swap sides and

 

repeat Use assistance if required

1 arm static hangs

H7

 

1 - 2 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Swap sides and

 

repeat
Use assistance if required

2 arm static hangs

H6

 

1 - 2 sets

 

1 – 2 mins

 

Hang till failure
Use assistance if required

 

Warm down with a few hangs

 

 

H1

 

     

Warm down with a few hangs

 

 

H3

 

     

Stretch etc

 

       


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