CRAG BOARD AND HOLD NUMBERING
Because finger-board work-outs are intense. It is essential that you warm up thoroughly before hand to prevent muscular or tendon injuries. Also remain well hydrated before during and after exercise.
If any injury happens during a work out, STOP immediately.
Like any power training exercises follow it up with plenty of rest at least 48 to 72 hrs between sessions.
Training on these boards is best done early into a climbing session as the body needs to be feeling both warmed up and strong. Training when you are tired creates poor technique and can there fore over load the fingers and tendons.
Set out below is a couple of training programs. Like any thing keep a log book of your training, to help monitor your performance. If you need to work a more specific muscle or tendon group adjust the exercises for that.
Hangs can either be done open handed or crimped. If crimping though make sure you are fully warmed up and avoid snatches as they carry the greatest risk of injury.
If exercises are to hard. Use assistance with either a bungee cord or a chair.
If exercises are to easy, use added weights.
NOTE:
Whilst not at the crag, the Crag Board can also be mounted to the wall for intense training exercises.
LEVEL OF WORK-OUT:
EASY
EXERCISE TYPE
|
HOLD TYPE
|
SETS
|
REST
|
EXTRAS
|
Warm up. Do some finger |
JUGS
|
|||
2 arm pull ups |
JUGS
|
2 – 3 sets
|
1 –2 mins
|
|
2 arm static hangs |
H3
|
3 – 5 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
|
2 arm static hangs |
H1
|
3 – 4 sets
|
1 - 2 mins
|
Hang till failure |
2 arm static hangs |
H3 and H5
|
2 – 3 sets
|
1 - 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
|
2 arm static hangs |
H1 and H5
|
1 – 3 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
|
2 arm static hangs |
H1
|
1 – 2 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Use assistance if needed.
|
2 arm static hangs |
H3
|
1 – 2 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Use assistance if needed.
|
Warm down
|
Jugs
|
|||
Stretch etc |
LEVEL OF WORK-OUT:
ADVANCED
EXERCISE TYPE
|
HOLD TYPE
|
SETS
|
REST
|
EXTRAS
|
Warm up. Do some finger |
JUGS
|
|||
2 arm static hangs |
H3
|
3 – 4 sets
|
1 –2 mins
|
|
2 arm pull ups |
H3
|
2 – 4 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
|
2 arm static hangs |
H1
|
3 – 5 sets
|
1 - 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
|
2 arm static hangs |
H1 and H5
|
2 – 4 sets
|
1 - 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
repeat |
1 arm static hangs |
H4
|
3 – 5 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
repeat |
2 arm static hangs |
H7 and H5
|
4 – 6 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
repeat Use assistance if required |
1 arm static hangs |
H7
|
1 - 2 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
repeat |
2 arm static hangs |
H6
|
1 - 2 sets
|
1 – 2 mins
|
Hang till failure
|
Warm down with a few hangs
|
H1
|
|||
Warm down with a few hangs
|
H3
|
|||
Stretch etc
|